This trip was inspired by an invitation to spend a week celebrating a friend's birthday in a villa in Tuscany. We chose to enhance the trip by making a stop in Rome and concluding it in Verona with an opera. Italy is a nation that is ideal for flexible planning and exploring the streets to discover interesting sights and delicious food.
Roaming Rome Without a Plan
After many years since our last visit to Italy, we arrived at the serene Rome-Ciampino airport and subsequently boarded the train to Termini Station, which was just a short stroll away from our hotel. Given our previous visits to Rome and our familiarity with its renowned attractions, we decided to use this brief 3-day excursion to gain a general sense of the city and explore a handful of new locations.
On our first night, we meandered through the city after enjoying a meal at our favorite Roman eatery, Trattoria Romana http://www.hostariaromana.it/ . It is essential to explore cities like Rome during the evening, as the historical landmarks come alive with beautiful illumination.
On our first full day, we visited several significant churches. The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, finished in 822, is adorned with ancient frescoes. The 5th-century papal basilica, Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, is a must-visit due to its Roman mosaics and ornate ceiling. Lastly, the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli stands out with Michelangelo’s sculpture of Moses and the chains of St Peter.
Exploring the Roman Jewish Quarter
Next, we proceeded to the ancient Roman Jewish Quarter, which is over 2100 years old. Our first destination was Giggetto, a restaurant with a lovely outdoor garden overlooking a peaceful street. This establishment is renowned for its fried Roman artichokes and stuffed zucchini flowers, especially during the summer. Just steps away from the restaurant, we explored various ancient ruins, such as the Portico d'Ottavio and Teatro Marcello. This Jewish quarter is steeped in history, dating back to the early Roman era. To delve deeper into the rich history of this area, a visit to the Libreria Ebraica bookstore is highly recommended, as it offers a wide selection of books on the local Jewish population.
Other notable attractions in the vicinity include the Tempio Maggiore Synagogue, the Fondazione Museo della Shoah Jewish Museum, and the Pasticceria Boccione kosher bakery.
One should not miss the opportunity to visit Rome without taking the time to wander along the scenic Tevere (Tiber) river and cross one of the bridges into the vibrant and artistic Trastevere neighborhood. There, you can explore its delightful narrow streets and charming alleyways.
The Art, The Park, and Street Wandering
Our next day in Rome began at the National Gallery of Ancient Art in the Baroque Barberini Palace https://www.barberinicorsini.org/en/. This museum contains numerous masterpieces by Tintoretto, El Greco, Caravaggio, and other renowned artists. The palace itself is beautiful, so we ended up spending most of the morning exploring both the museum and the gardens.
For a breath of fresh air and some much-needed summer shade, we leisurely walked through Villa Borghese, enjoying an artisanal gelato while appreciating the beautiful park scenery. Villa Borghese seamlessly transitions into Passeggiata del Pincio and culminates at the scenic viewpoint of Piazza del Popolo. Descending into the square, a leisurely stroll along the stylish artist street, Via Margutta, towards the Spanish Steps, provides a perfect conclusion to a fulfilling day.
Under the Tuscan Sun
On our final morning in Rome, we went to the Termini train station to catch our train to Follonica. We waited for our train at the nearby Mercato Centrale food hall, which has around 20 food stalls. It's a fantastic spot to grab a quick meal while people-watching. Although it can be a bit chaotic, it's a trendy and vibrant place to spend time.
After our two-hour journey to Follonica, we were welcomed by a house filled with friends who had gathered for a birthday celebration. This villa, with multiple bedrooms and bathrooms, offered panoramic views of the valley adorned with vineyards, the Mediterranean Sea, and the delightful hilltop village of Scarlino. Additionally, we were treated to breathtaking sunset views every evening!
To kick off our days of leisurely lounging by the pool and beach,
we decided to embark on a day trip to the historic medieval town of Massa Marittima. The cathedral, dating back to the 13th century, along with the fortified city walls, creates an authentic Italian backdrop for a day of leisurely walks through peaceful medieval streets. Exploring artisan shops, vinotecas (wine bars), and delightful cafes adds to the charm of this picturesque town.
We spent our final evening in this area in the small yet charming hilltop-walled town of Scarlino. We had dinner at the Al Convento restaurant, which is located within the garden area of a 14th-century church and convent. From there, we enjoyed a beautiful view of the Follonica Valley.
My Fair Verona
After a week of relaxing by the pool in the peaceful Tuscan countryside, we were eager to visit the vibrant and artistic city of Verona, where we would also have the opportunity to attend our first open-air opera at the renowned Verona Arena.
Discovering Tuscany on Our Way to Verona
During our car journey to Verona, we made a few quick stops in charming Tuscan towns, namely San Casciano in Val di Pesa and Impruneta. However, we decided to have a longer lunch break in the city of Modena.
Modena is a captivating ancient city with a magnificent old-world square called Piazza Grande, and it is also home to numerous restaurants that proudly showcase local regional ingredients. For lunch, we opted to explore a new culinary experience by trying dishes from the Puglia region of Italy. Bottega Mamma Puglia is situated near the renowned Mercato Storico Albinelli market. This delightful family-owned restaurant offers homemade and inventive traditional Pugliese cuisine in a charming bistro atmosphere.
Verona Never Fails to Impress
Verona is a city known for its rich history, impressive art, and magnificent beauty. Everywhere we went, we were greeted with breathtaking views of the Adige River, surrounded by bridges, monuments, squares, churches, and hills. Exploring the old city, Cittá Antiga, we wandered through the squares of Piazza del Erbe and Piazza Bra, passed by the historic city gates of Porta Borsari, and visited medieval churches like Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro. We also admired the ancient bridges, such as the Ponte Scaligero and the majestic Castelvecchio. Adjacent to the old city lies the one-of-a-kind Parco delle Mura, a peaceful park shaded by trees, which was built on top of ancient defense walls and bastions.
An Evening at the Opera
Our big night in Verona, though, was all about the opera—The Barber of Seville. And not just any opera, but an incredible open-air performance at the Verona Arena https://www.arena.it/en, a Roman amphitheater dating back to 30 AD (link). This show went on well past midnight! Afterward, Piazza Bra became bustling with fellow theater-goers flocking to the numerous open-air cafes for a glass of wine or some pizza. It was truly an unforgettable night!
Feed Me, Verona!
In this city, there is no shortage of fantastic dining options. However, one establishment has truly stood out for us - Trattoria Pane e Vino (Iink). We had such an unforgettable experience that we couldn't resist returning to for a second round, eager to sample even more delights from their menu.
Chef Angelo Bonora, the esteemed owner, has made a name for himself with his delicious creations. His regional recipe of risotto, infused with the rich flavors of local Amarone wine, left us craving for more. The potato gnocchi, stuffed with cheese and smothered in a black truffle butter sauce, was a true indulgence. Not only did we relish the incredible flavors, but we were also treated to an aesthetic feast. The seasonal vegetables, cooked to perfection, were elegantly served in a glass pot, and the homemade sausages and cured meats were absolutely delicious.
Trattoria Pane e Vino truly epitomizes culinary excellence, leaving a lasting impression on both our palates and our memories. https://www.trattoriapanevino.it/
A Day Exploring Charming Towns Just Outside of Verona
We embarked on a delightful afternoon adventure, venturing just a short 30-minute drive from Verona to the renowned Valpolicella wine region. This picturesque hilly area captivated us with its breathtaking views of vineyards and the serene Garda Lake. Our exploration led us to the historic hilltop town of San Giorgio di Valpolicella, where we admired the medieval cloister and parish church, and discovered remnants of Bronze Age ruins, along with fascinating early Roman artifacts.
Continuing our journey, we stopped at the charming town of Negrar di Valpolicella, where we indulged in a leisurely afternoon lunch and enjoyed the local wine at the charming Osteria Corte San Marino. The osteria's serene shaded courtyard provided the perfect ambiance for our afternoon lunch. (Link)
Another Day, Another Ancient Town Alive with Culture and Community
Verona is conveniently located near the Trentino/Alto Adige region of Italy, which shares a border with Austria. This proximity allowed us to embark on an easy day trip to Rovereto and Bolzano, both of which left a lasting impression.
Modernity Meets Medieval in Rovereto
Rovereto, an ancient fortress city, surprised us with its expansive weekly open-air market. As we strolled through the historic city center, the market extended for several blocks, leading us to enchanting, meandering streets that ascend towards the magnificent 13th-century Castelbarco castle.
This lively city is bursting with colors and features street vendors, delightful cafes, artist shops, and captivating museums.
Cultures Collide with Delightful Results in Bolzano
Upon arriving in Bolzano, we quickly discovered that the city houses the renowned museum that exhibits the mummified remains of a Neolithic man, also known as the iceman. Unearthed in 1991, this copper-age glacier mummy is a captivating testament to our ancient history.
What struck us immediately was the palpable shift in culture. Bolzano's historical ties to Austria imbue the city with a distinctive ambiance more reminiscent of Austria than Italy. With its alpine-like architecture and German-style restaurants, Bolzano exudes a captivating charm.
This grand city boasts an array of lovely old buildings and vibrant, spacious squares. Strolling through its winding medieval streets, one cannot help but be enchanted by the unique architectural wonders at every turn. Bolzano's pedestrian-friendly layout invites leisurely exploration, making it effortless to meander from one captivating square to another.
