Ireland was a new destination for us, so we decided to spend the entire week in Dublin. Our main objective for this short trip was to meet up with relatives who were also in the city for a few days. We had high expectations after reading and watching videos about Ireland, but Dublin thoroughly surprised and impressed us.
We opted for a more central location in Dublin, just a 10-minute stroll from Trinity College and a stone's throw away from the River Liffey. The city boasts a blend of contemporary and traditional architecture, exuding cleanliness and pedestrian-friendliness. Dublin's charm lies in its diverse array of parks, historic landmarks, bustling pubs, and shopping districts, creating a vibrant atmosphere that appeals to both tourists and locals alike. Dublin fascinated us with its friendly residents and diverse selection of international cuisine, along with their authentic Irish pub food.
Pub Food and Guinness Beer
Enjoying Irish and International Cuisine
We have to start with our review of food in Ireland. As you may know, we travel to enjoy culture and explore historical sites, but our agenda always has food as a priority. And Ireland did not disappoint! We mostly ate pub food, which turned out to be quite delicious and affordable. Everything from the traditional fish and chips (french fries for you Americans) to shepherd's pie, we were very satisfied with the traditional Irish fare of food.
One of the pubs we frequented a couple of times was O’Neills Victorian Pub & Townhouse. The food was superb, and the ambiance had a charming, community feel.
Another evening, we had the pleasure of dining at Fade Street Social Restaurant and Cocktail Bar. The cuisine was exceptional, and we also had the opportunity to visit their rooftop bar for a delightful post-dinner drink.
But we did explore more international food while in Dublin. One evening, we visited a small, Italian wine shop and restaurant SFUSO Gastronomia Italiana Wine & Food Market.
Discovering Guinness Beer
As for the beer, it was our first time ever trying Guinness (and what better place than its birthplace, Ireland). We discovered it to be a smooth beer with a low alcohol content, which makes it effortless to consume in significant amounts, as is customary among the Irish.
We booked the Guinness Storehouse experience, immersing ourselves in the history and production of Guinness beer. Although the facilities were stunning and the information quite fascinating, the overall experience seemed a bit overpriced. We opted for the base ticket, which provided a tasting experience (consisting of a shot glass of Guinness and an explanation on how to fully enjoy the beer) and a pint of Guinness at their top-floor bar, offering incredible views of Dublin.
Trinity College and Book of Kells
One of the major highlights of our first visit to Dublin was Trinity College. Trinity College was established in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I as part of her endeavor to establish Protestant dominance in Ireland. Initially, it served as a modest Protestant college, emphasizing the study of theology and philosophy. Gradually, it expanded in both size and renown, evolving into one of Europe's most esteemed universities. Presently, Trinity College continues to be a globally recognized hub of education and advancement, boasting a storied past and an extensive range of offerings and resources.
We had a pleasant evening stroll through the campus, which is open to the public, on our first night in Dublin. We were captivated by the serene beauty of the architecture, accentuated by the evenly distributed lights. Students interact and leisurely walk around day and night, contributing to the ambiance of intellectual freedom and exploration.
The Trinity College Tour, which includes the Book of Kells experience, provided us with a comprehensive understanding of the rich architectural history and the presence of renowned figures such as Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift, and Samuel Beckett.
The Trinity College Library's "Long Room" is its most famous section. This impressive chamber in the Old Library is nearly 65 meters long and houses around 200,000 of the oldest books in the library. With a rich history dating back to 1592, Trinity College's library is renowned for its vast collection, making it the largest in Ireland, with over 6 million printed items.
Star Wars fans will find the Long Room intriguing, as it strongly resembles the design of the Jedi Archives in "Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones." Although the film version is digitally rendered, the resemblance is undeniable.
Trinity College Library houses the renowned Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament. This manuscript, dating back to around 800 AD, is considered Ireland's most prized national treasure. The exhibit offers an extensive and detailed exploration of the book's creation process, fostering a deeper appreciation for its exceptional qualities.
The library houses the oldest surviving Irish harp, famously called the "Brian Boru" harp. While it's unlikely that the Irish king Brian Boru personally played it, this harp remains the inspiration for Ireland's emblem.
Oscar Wilde House Tour
A must-see for us was Oscar Wilde's house, also known as No. 1 Merrion Square. The house is now part of the American College Dublin campus, which offers a variety of undergraduate and postgraduate programs. While the house is primarily used for academic purposes, it also includes rooms dedicated to Wilde and his family, maintaining the connection to its famous former resident. We joined one of the weekend tours, and our guide for the evening, Bob, was incredibly energetic and a captivating storyteller, keeping us engaged throughout the entire tour.
We were fascinated to discover the history and accomplishments of Oscar Wilde's parents, who were already renowned and well-established before Oscar himself became famous. His father, Sir William Wilde, was a renowned ear and eye surgeon, as well as a respected figure in archaeology and folklore studies in Ireland. His mother, Jane Francesca Elgee Wilde, was a prominent Irish nationalist poet, essayist, and activist who wrote under the pseudonym "Speranza." Their achievements in medicine, literature, and activism undoubtedly influenced their son's successful career.
Literary Pub Crawl
A visit to Ireland would not be complete without a pub crawl, but we chose to enhance the experience with the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl. Founded in 1988, the evening was both educational and entertaining, thanks to our tour guide and actor Finn, and the musical performances by John.
We visited three pubs and enjoyed a walking tour of the area. Our guide shared interesting facts about famous Irish literary figures such as Oscar Wilde, Bram Stoker, and Samuel Beckett. The group consisted of around 30 people, and our guides did a great job of keeping us organized and on the move. They even handled some "interesting street characters" who tried to crash the tour a few times. We only wish that each pub stop would have been longer than just 20 minutes to enjoy a beer and relax. It just wasn’t enough time to fully savor a full pint. Our recommendation would be to order a smaller glass of beer (yes, you can order beer smaller than a pint in Ireland!) so that you have enough time to enjoy it without feeling rushed.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Visiting St. Patrick’s Cathedral and its beautiful gardens was a delightful experience. The architecture is truly awe-inspiring, with intricate details and tall spires that will leave you breathless. As you walk through the well-maintained public gardens, you'll enjoy picturesque views of the majestic Cathedral, surrounded by vibrant flowers and lush greenery.
Once you step inside, the experience becomes even more captivating. The audio tour, included in the admission price, provides a wealth of information that enriches your understanding of the Cathedral's fascinating history and remarkable architecture.
Temple Bar
Many are familiar with Dublin's notorious Temple Bar district. Despite its touristy reputation, it can be a pleasant experience if visited at the appropriate time. Despite the perception of it being merely a collection of bars, the area actually exudes a distinct bohemian vibe, featuring vibrant street art, an array of diverse shops, and even the renowned Irish Rock-n-Roll Hall of Fame.
We chose to take a mid-afternoon walk along the streets and discovered that several bars feature traditional, live Irish music all day and night. It is more convenient to find a seat and appreciate the music during the earlier hours. As the day progresses, the crowd becomes more packed (and intoxicated). The musicians were equally entertaining as the music itself, constantly engaging with the audience and playfully teasing tourists from different parts of the globe.
We did stop into The Oliver St. John Gogarty Pub, in the heart of the Temple Bar area. The crowd was rambunctious, the music was high-energy, and the musicians were hilarious.
The Brazen Head
One of our unplanned stops was The Brazen Head, which is said to be one of the oldest pubs in Ireland, founded in 1198. With live music and outdoor seating options, it is always crowded, so planning your visit is necessary. Fortunately, we were able to find a table and join a couple from Liverpool, England. It was a pleasant break from our day of exploring the city, enjoying conversation, a pint, and music. We will definitely return to this pub to secure an indoor seat for the music and fun that we could only glimpse from the outdoor area.
Howth
We took a day trip from Dublin to the coastal town of Howth, located in the northern part of Dublin Bay. It was a short and convenient 30-minute DART train ride for only 5 euros roundtrip. Howth truly embodied the essence of an Irish port town. Our exploration began with a visit to Howth Castle, which was built by Almeric, the first Lord of Howth, around 1177 after the Norman invasion of Ireland. Unfortunately, we could only admire the castle from the outside as it was closed for the filming of an upcoming crime drama series.
We then strolled down to the pier and lighthouse, which provided us with breathtaking views of both the coastal Howth and the expansive bay area.
We even encountered a musician playing at the pier's edge, enhancing the serene views of the bay.
