Our first trip to Japan in 2018 was for our honeymoon. We had extensively researched the culture, cuisine, and attractions, but what we encountered surpassed all expectations...in the best possible manner!
The contrast between tradition and modernity in the country showcases a nation that embraces the future while cherishing its past. In this article, we highlight our Tokyo experience during our trip to Japan. Read until the end for valuable insights and tips on traveling to Japan.
Exploring Asakusa
We started at the nearby famous Senso-ji temple, which is simply beautiful and majestic at dusk. During the day, this temple can be infested with throngs of tourists, but in the evening, after the concession stands close, you basically have the place to yourself. The temple and temple gate, Asakusa Jinja and Kaminarimon, are lit up until 11:00 pm, and it’s when they are the most beautiful.
Tempura for Two
We visited a well-known Tempura restaurant we had read about, Tempura Daikokuya Bekkan. With an unassuming facade (all in Kanji - the Japanese alphabet) and a simple sliding door, we entered a small establishment with scurrying Japanese waitresses that quickly ushered us with an English menu to a table. Green tea was immediately offered, and we quickly decided on the combination plate to get a bit of everything. One word could only describe our meal: Delicious! From the clear soup with its smoky aroma and flavors to the black sauce eggplant to the expertly battered tempura fish combination, our palates were satisfied. The food was simple, well-done, and authentic.
What is Tempura?
Japanese Tempura is a delicious and popular dish that has captured the hearts (and taste buds) of people all over the world. It consists of lightly battered and deep-fried seafood, vegetables, or even meat. The word "tempura" actually comes from the Portuguese word "tempero," meaning seasoning or condiment. This culinary delight was introduced to Japan by Portuguese traders in the 16th century during their exploration of the seas. Initially, tempura was only enjoyed by the ruling class, but it eventually became more accessible to the general public. Today, tempura is a beloved part of Japanese cuisine, known for its crispy texture and delicate flavors. Whether you're savoring a plate of shrimp tempura or indulging in some vegetable tempura, this delightful dish is sure to leave you wanting more.
Spotting the Working People
One evening during our first week in Tokyo, we noticed that most (if not all) the businessmen heading home for the evening all wore the standard black suit, white shirt (no tie), and a black briefcase. It was striking to see this simple attire peppered into the crowds, displaying the prevalent uniformity of corporate culture, commonly known as "salarymen", still thriving amongst an increasingly diverse and colorful spectrum of Japanese fashion and technology.
A Little History of Japanese Salarymen and Salarywomen
Japanese salarymen are a unique and fascinating aspect of Japanese culture. They refer to white-collar workers, typically men, who work long hours in corporate jobs and are known for their dedication and commitment to their companies. The concept of salary men emerged during Japan's rapid industrialization in the late 19th century when Western business practices were adopted. These hardworking individuals often prioritize their company's success over personal life, leading to a strong work ethic and a sense of loyalty towards their employers. Salarymen play a crucial role in shaping Japan's economic landscape and are an integral part of the country's work culture.
Kyariaūman, also known as Japanese salary women, are a fascinating group of working professionals in Japan. These women play a significant role in the country's workforce and contribute to its economic growth. Kyariaūman are typically highly educated and work in various industries such as finance, technology, and healthcare. They are known for their strong work ethic, dedication, and professionalism. Many Kyariaūman balance their careers with family responsibilities, showcasing their exceptional multitasking abilities. In recent years, there has been a positive shift towards promoting gender equality in the workplace, allowing more opportunities for these talented women to thrive. The Kyariaūman are an integral part of Japanese society, embodying resilience and determination in their pursuit of success.
Japanese Sweets Start the Day
We had read reviews about a popular neighborhood bakery nearby, Kagetsudo Bakery, that makes melon bread. The bread has nothing to do with melon but is called that because of its shape.
It was a 10-minute walk from our hotel and just outside the Senso-ji temple grounds. We arrived right before opening time at 9:00 am, and there were already a handful of people in line. The bread was crusty and crunchy on the outside and velvety soft inside with a slight sweetness to it. As it turned out, we returned to this bakery a few more times during our week in Tokyo.
The Sacred Dead
Honoring the deceased is of great importance in Japan. We decided to explore the historic 150-year-old Yanaka Cemetery. The cemetery was very different from anything we had ever seen.
It was interesting to walk through it and see the old tombs and the prayer plaques.
The Yanaka Cemetery, located in the heart of Tokyo, holds a rich history that dates back to the Edo period. Established in 1874, it became one of the first public cemeteries in Japan. This serene final resting place is known for its beautiful cherry blossom trees and traditional architecture, making it a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. The cemetery is home to the graves of many notable figures, including writers, artists, and politicians, offering a glimpse into Japan's cultural heritage.
Falling into the Rabbit Hole of Shinjuku Train Station
One day we ventured into a little “Alice in Wonderland” adventure via the Shinjuku Train Station. This is one of the busiest and largest stations in the world. It is a massive maze of tunnels, shops, trains, and people. We literally got lost in here for nearly 45 minutes trying to get out! We had some nice people try to direct us, but ultimately we learned that we had passed a dozen exits without even realizing it. It was quite the learning lesson, but we felt that we needed to “experience” the station and got our steps in while doing it.
The Parade of Sushi
One of the few times we had traditional sushi while in Japan was at Numazuko Sushi. This place is highly popular due to its top-notch sushi quality and the enjoyable atmosphere created by the conveyor belt. We had to wait in line for about 15 minutes, but it was well worth the wait. We just sat there and waited for the next enticing dish to sail by on the conveyor belt.
There are four different color plates, each with a different price designation. We piled up the empty plates, and at the end of our meal, the hostess added it up and gave us the bill. We had a whopping 22 plates (yes, we love sushi!), and that came to only 6,200 Yen, which is about $60 US.
Bar Hopping After Dark
One evening we decided to check out the LGBT neighborhood of Ni-Chome. We stopped for a drink at the Tokyo Eagle and Arty Farty, both of which are established LGBT staples in Tokyo.
Ni-Chome, located in the vibrant city of Tokyo, is a thriving LGBTQ neighborhood that exudes a warm and inclusive atmosphere. Known as one of the largest queer districts in Asia, Ni-Chome offers a diverse range of venues and activities that cater to the LGBTQ community and its allies. From trendy bars and clubs to cozy cafes and shops, there is something for everyone here. The neighborhood's lively energy and accepting attitude make it a welcoming space where people can freely express their identities and connect with like-minded individuals.
The Infamous Golden Gai Area
We moved to the Golden Gai area of Shinjuku, which consists of literally hundreds of tiny little bars. These alleys are known for their tiny narrow bars.
Each bar is very different, and they each draw a very different crowd. They seat anywhere between 4 to 10 people max, and as we meandered our way through, peeking into each, we felt like we were a couple of naughty boys sneaking around the Red Light District, as many of the locals still give tourists a deadpan look of disinterest as they drink away their workday woes.
After walking around a while, we decided on a micro bar, small even by Golden Gai standards. We chose this one because of its rocker vibe and the sound of Freddie Mercury’s voice. The proprietor was a middle-aged Japanese woman with spiky Chrissie Hynde hair and heavy makeup. There were maybe five people there, and it was quite smoky since most of them were smoking cigarettes. This proved to be quite challenging for us since neither of us are smokers, but we decided to make the best of it and have our 2-drink minimum. Overall, we were glad we hung out there for a while. We enjoyed the rocker vibe and the warm environment, even though we had to rinse our clothes out when we returned to our hotel due to the heavy smoke in the bar.
The Great Crossing
No trip is complete in Tokyo without a visit to Shibuya Crossing!
Shibuya Crossing, renowned for its bustling crowds simultaneously crossing the vast intersection, experienced a slight drizzle. Seeking shelter, we sought refuge on the upper level of the nearby Starbucks to capture the customary Shibuya Crossing snapshots. The dance of the umbrellas crossing the street from all directions was a very unique perspective.
Known as one of the busiest pedestrian crossings in the world, it sees an astonishing number of people crossing each day. What makes it truly unique is the "scramble" aspect, where pedestrians from all directions converge at once, creating a mesmerizing sight. With its vibrant atmosphere and neon lights, Shibuya Scramble Crossing has also been featured in numerous movies and music videos, further adding to its allure. Whether you're a local or a visitor, experiencing the energy and organized chaos of this famous crossing is a must-do when in Tokyo.
The Train Station with it All
Needing to buy train tickets for our upcoming trip to Kyoto, we ventured off to the massive and historical Tokyo Station. You can spend days here walking around, shopping and eating. They even have an area called ramen alley because of all the ramen restaurants you can choose from. We got in line for our tickets because the ticket machines only work with credit cards that are valid in Japanese banks, which basically means if you have an American-issued credit card, you can’t purchase your tickets here. The line moved quickly. The ticket agent spoke good English and was very helpful in explaining how tickets worked.
An especially unique area of the Tokyo Station is the famous Daimaru Department Store.
With its rich history dating back to 1717, Daimaru has become synonymous with luxury and elegance. From fashion and beauty to gourmet food and home decor, this iconic department store caters to the diverse needs and tastes of its discerning customers. Whether you're looking for the latest trends or unique Japanese craftsmanship, Daimaru is sure to provide an unforgettable shopping experience.
Hidden Gem of Eateries
We had seen a Tokyo travel segment on a TV show before we left home that highlighted a popular izakaya (pub-style) restaurant situated underneath the train tracks near Ginza. It caught our attention, so we put it on our gold-star list of places to try while in Tokyo.
We arrived at Andy’s Shin Hinomoto Izakaya to find a very lively after-work crowd sitting in a large open dining room directly under an arched ceiling, constantly reminding the diners that you are indeed under the train tracks.
We had to wait for a table, but the owner, Andy, a very charming and friendly Brit, quickly offered up some libation while we waited. We learned from him that he had inherited this restaurant from his Japanese father-in-law, and he now does all the fresh fish shopping at the nearby Tsukiji Market. Andy’s was definitely one of the top culinary experiences during our trip to Japan. It’s hard to say which part of our meal was the best, although the daily fresh sashimi platter, grilled swordfish, miso scallops, mixed tempura, or sake flight were all contenders.
Photo with the Cool Kids
One morning we headed back to Kagetsudo Bakery for more of their delicious melon bread. While waiting in line, we met a group of Japanese middle school kids that wanted to know where we were from and wanted to practice their English. The next thing we knew, their teacher was taking our picture with them. It’s great to travel and make new friends!
Over Animated in Akihabara
Japan is renowned for its anime, and there's no better place to experience this than the Akihabara area in Tokyo.
FUN FACT: Anime Origins
The first animated film released in Japan, and therefore the first anime, was probably released in late 1916 or very early '17 by Shimokawa Oten, made with chalk, and less than five minutes long. Read more here about the history of anime.
The Las Vegas of Electronics and Anime
When traveling to Tokyo, you can’t avoid reading about the famous Akihabara or Electric Town in the Jimbo-cho area. Think Las Vegas for electronics. Of all the areas of Tokyo, this for us was the most overwhelming. As soon as we got out of the metro station, all our senses were bombarded with throngs of pedestrians, bright lights, and mega-colossus video screens installed on buildings in huge intersections advertising the newest electronic novelty and street food stands.
We, of course, had to stop for a nibble. One of our new favorite Japanese food items is takoyaki, octopus fritters. These are very popular all over Japan and are a great street food specialty.
Each pilgrimage to Akihabara should start at Akihabara Radio Kaikan, a multistory building carrying every electronic gadget, appliance, or game imaginable to the human race. Akihabara is also known for the manga/anime stores carrying thousands of comic books, magazines, cosplay games, figurines, and novelty items. We had fun just roaming around and finding strange new items. One thing that really surprised us is that some of the anime/manga have some very strange erotic undertones. And yes, we are talking about “adult anime,” which is prolific everywhere in this area. Quite bizarre.
Sushi Making with a Sushi Master
We had our inaugural Sushi Making Class via an Airbnb Experience with a skilled local sushi chef.
It was with Nori Masanori, a Sushi Master whose family has owned a sushi restaurant in the Asakusa area for generations, at his favorite local grocery store Hanamasa Serizuko in Asakusa. He talked a little about the history of sushi and the optimal items to buy for making great sushi. This part of the evening was extremely helpful since we were very interested in coming home and trying our hand at homemade sushi, and to be successful, you must start with the right ingredients.
Then he took us to his own house (within walking distance) for the personalized sushi-making experience. It was a wonderful experience learning all the components and steps to making Nigiri Sushi and typical Japanese Sushi rolls, from making the sticky rice to cutting the fish to combining the items in just the right fashion. Then we ate our masterpieces with a flight of delicious sake! Definitely, an experience we will share with friends and family!
The Famous Tsukiji Fish Market
Open to the public, Tsukiji Fish Market is a maze of shops, restaurants, and vendors that served up a wide variety of tasty fish treats and other tummy-tempting delights. We enjoyed tamago (an egg omelet-like treat on a stick), egg stuffed with rice, unagi on a stick (two types and both were delicious), scallops with sea urchin on top (wow), tuna rolls (with the largest and freshest portions of tuna in a roll we have ever had), delicious sake (as a refreshing pit stop on our food tour), and finished this lunchtime extravaganza with some Matcha ice cream and Black Sesame Seed ice cream.
UPDATE - Tsukiji Fish Market (closed) moved to the new Toyosu Market
This famous market was later moved to the newer and larger Toyosu Market, a new location on the man-made island of Toyosu in the Bay of Tokyo.
The Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace is a magnificent architectural marvel that serves as the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. Nestled amidst lush gardens and surrounded by moats and stone walls, the palace exudes an air of grandeur and historical significance. The main building, known as the Kyuden, showcases traditional Japanese design elements with its elegant roofs and intricate woodwork. Visitors can explore the East Gardens, which offer breathtaking views of the palace grounds and provide a serene escape from the bustling city. Steeped in rich history and cultural heritage, the Imperial Palace stands as a symbol of Japan's imperial legacy and continues to captivate visitors from around the world.
It’s Okonomiyaki Time!
One of our favorite Japanese cuisines is okonomiyaki, which can be thought of as a type of Japanese comfort food.
FUN FACT: Okonomiyaki
“Okonomiyaki is a popular pan-fried dish that consists of batter and cabbage. Selected toppings and ingredients are added which can vary greatly (anything from meat and seafood to wasabi and cheese). This variability is reflected in the dish's name; "okonomi" literally means "to one's liking". The dish is available all over Japan, but is particularly popular in the cities of Hiroshima and Osaka.” (Source)
We found the highly-rated Asakusa Okonomiyaki Sometaro to have another wonderful meal. A local place that was priced right for a delicious variety of okonomiyaki. Most dishes were less than $10 dollars (1,000 yen), and the atmosphere was casual and fun!
The Culture and Secret LGBT Bars of Tokyo
We had an incredible and eye-opening LGBTQ AirBnB Bar Tour Experience one evening in Tokyo's LGBT district, Ni-Chome.
Our host/tour guide, Naoki, was friendly and spoke fluent English (though he claims to still be learning), and was hilarious. Our group was only five total, an American and another gay couple from Wales (and now friends of ours.)
We learned that there are various types of LGBTQ bars and clubs in Tokyo. In fact, there are 300 LGBTQ bars/clubs in Ni-Chome alone! This is a little-known fact about the area; even if you try to Google articles or information about these bars, most are either unlisted or not featured in major articles or tourism sites, or guides.
There is a reason for this; though Japanese LGBTQ social acceptance is fairly open, the overall “out” statistics are very low, with less than 5% of LGBTQ Japanese out at work, which is even lower than the approximately 10% out to their families or friends. The workplace seems to be a closeted space for LGBTQ; therefore, the 300 bars/clubs in Ni-Chome offer a variety of social havens and outlets for locals (and savvy travelers that are in the know.)
The Three Types of LGBTQ Bars/Clubs in Japan
Naoki, our guide, explained to us that there are three types of LGBTQ bars/clubs; Snack Bars, Concept Bars/Clubs, and Mixed Bars/Clubs.
A Snack Bar (like the above-mentioned The Prop we first visited) provides snacks with the drinks. The bartender is typically called "Mama" in these bars so you can address them as such. Mamas are very informative and friendly, providing visitors with an inviting and social atmosphere. We were served yummy eggplant and vegetable snacks, offered with a wet towel and chopsticks. Not your usual bar nuts (no pun intended.)
Next, Naoki took us for a walking tour of the general area, where he highlighted the various bars/clubs and how to identify them. For instance, bars with pink signs are places to “purchase” intimate experiences with other men. You would go in, find a match, and go to a local Net Cafe (more on this in a moment) or a love hotel (very common in Japan for all types of couples.)
We also learned that there are various types of transgender bars, even one just for straight women to meet F2M (female to male) transgender men. The concept of these bars is that straight women want to speak with handsome men who can understand their perspective and converse socially because they were women. It was truly an amazing concept.
We also learned that there are Members' Only Bars that are “invite only,” so you must be invited by another member to get in.
Concept bars/clubs are usually themed (such as they dress you up in anime for the evening) or like the F2M Straight Women’s Bar. The Mixed Bars are exactly as it sounds; they are a mix of LGBTQ and straight people. Most street-level bars/clubs are mixed, while the rest are underground or upstairs. Some buildings have stacked bars/clubs 4-5 stories high. Identifying which bar/club is which is not easy (good to be with a local) because most don’t display the typical rainbow flag.
Our second bar stop was a mixed bar where we met a lovely group of Japanese lesbians (all spoke English), where we enjoyed more drinks, and even met some very drunk Japanese salary men that were excited to meet some Americans.
Net Hotels...more than meets the eye.
One unique accommodation in Japan are Net Hotels. These hotels offer various size rooms for set periods of time (1, 3, and 6 hours, as well as daily and weekly rates) and provide bathrooms, showers, etc. Each room has a bed with a computer (to access the internet), which is very affordable and clean. Many are used by individuals that have stayed out late (and missed the last trains for the evening) and/or are just too drunk to make it home.
You can check in to crash for the night or use the room for “other activities” with someone you may have met at a bar/club. Again, these hotels are very clean, safe, and a great option for individuals wanting to sleep off the drinks before heading home.
An Afternoon At the Museum
The Tokyo National Museum was a treat with various artworks and pieces throughout the centuries. We learned just how much China and Korea influenced Japan's cultural and artistic development, including religion (Buddhism, etc.) and even the tea ceremony. Over time, Japan has developed its own unique art and cultural practices that have a beauty and serenity that is visually and philosophically enchanting.
As the oldest and largest museum in Japan, the Tokyo National Museum houses an extensive collection of over 110,000 artifacts, including ancient pottery, exquisite paintings, delicate textiles, and intricate sculptures. Visitors can immerse themselves in the rich history and traditions of Japan as they explore the museum's various galleries, each dedicated to different periods and themes. From the stunning displays of samurai armor to the serene beauty of traditional tea ceremony utensils, the Tokyo National Museum offers a captivating journey through Japan's artistic heritage. With its impressive collection and commitment to preserving and showcasing Japanese art, the museum stands as a testament to the country's vibrant cultural legacy.
TRAVEL INSIGHT: Exchange Rates & Credit Cards
At the time of this trip (2018), the $1 US was equivalent to about ¥100 (Yen) in Japan. So if you spent ¥2,000 for lunch, it was about $20 US. Though we did use some cash while in Japan, we relied on the excellent exchange rate our credit card offers to save by charging most of our purchases. Check with your credit card (or explore new ones) for a comparison. We have Chase Premier and love the rates and the excellent customer service with travel incentives.
Wifi in Japan is Portable and Affordable
We did some research beforehand and learned that portable WiFi routers are all the rage in Japan, and they are more affordable than purchasing an international plan with your wireless phone provider. We booked our Ninja WiFi High-Speed Portable Router through Voyagin. Ninja is supposed to have the best coverage throughout Japan and they allow many devices to connect simultaneously.
Logging into WiFi was as easy as turning it on, entering the code, and surfing the net. The speed of service (at the airport and on the train to the hotel) was exceptionally fast.
Tokyo Transportation Is Clean and Efficient
To enhance your public transportation experience, obtain a Pasmo card. These cards allow easy access to get on and off the Tokyo subway lines. They are valid on all the different lines and you can even use them at convenience stores and other Japanese cities.
We looked at different transportation options from the airport to central Tokyo (trains and taxis) and found that a taxi would cost over $200 US! Shuttles can be a good option but can take a long time since Tokyo traffic is notoriously bad. The train service in Tokyo is truly amazing, so we opted for this option.
Since we were staying in the northeastern neighborhood of Asakusa, we took the Keisei Skyliner from Narita Airport to Ueno station for around 2,400 Yen per person. The trains are immaculate, with assigned seating, digital screens, and constant announcements (to include English) tracking our journey from the airport to Ueno Station. The train also included USB plugs for your devices and plenty of space for luggage.
Taxis in Japan
When it comes to taxis in Japan, you may notice a striking difference between the yellow and black ones. Yellow taxis are commonly found in Tokyo, while black taxis are more prevalent in cities like Kyoto and Osaka. The choice of color is not just for aesthetics; it actually signifies different taxi services. Yellow taxis are typically operated by larger companies and can be hailed on the street or found at designated taxi stands. They often use meters to calculate fares and accept various payment methods. On the other hand, black taxis are usually privately owned and require advance booking through phone or online platforms. They offer a more personalized experience and often come with professional drivers who are knowledgeable about local attractions. So, whether you opt for a yellow or black taxi, both options provide convenient and reliable transportation throughout Japan's bustling cities.
Uber is now accessible in Japan, primarily in major cities such as Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, and Fukuoka.
SPECIAL NOTE on Japanese 7-11s
7-11 stores in Japan are like none other, as they feature many fresh meals and food items you don’t get in the US, and many locals and travelers visit them often (they also have international ATMs, which is convenient for travelers.)
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