Our second base camp in Japan, Kyoto, during our 2018 trip offered thrilling adventures that delighted our palates and transported us to the most serene locations imaginable.
Our Own Walking Tour
We spent an afternoon strolling through some recommended streets (from our Kyoto Lonely Planet guidebook) that provided excellent examples of classic Kyoto housing (called Machiya), the design simple yet classic. These homes date back almost 400 years and can be found scattered throughout Kyoto amongst backstreets and nestled between ultra-modern buildings.
We also visited the infamous street of Shirakawa Minami-dori, notated as one of the most beautiful streets in all of Asia, with its gentle stream flowing the entire street, creating a romantic charm that is complemented by the lush green foliage partially screening the businesses and houses along this pedestrian-friendly street.
Spotting a Real Geisha
We spent an afternoon exploring Gion Corner, renowned for its local Geisha population.
Unfortunately, the trend for rent-a-kimono for the day (both men and women) is hugely popular in Kyoto, so sightings of actual (authentic) Geisha are a challenge, but we managed to spy a few and even captured a beautiful image (see below) that represents the subtle beauty and elegance of the Geisha style and mannerisms.
FUN FACT: Geisha
“The first geisha were actually male, appearing around the year 1730. Only about 20 years later, female geisha began to appear in the forms of odoriko (meaning dancers) and shamisen players, and they quickly took over the profession, dominating it by 1780.” Read more here about the origins of the Geisha.
Gion Corner offers visitors a glimpse into traditional Japanese arts and performances, including tea ceremonies, flower arrangement, puppet theater, and traditional music and dance. The venue provides an immersive experience that showcases the beauty and elegance of Kyoto's cultural heritage.
A Sweet Tooth Fix
We stopped for a tastebud-satisfying visit to the infamous Cacao 365 chocolate shop. These artisan-created treats are worth the stop and cost. We had some samplings that literally burst in your mouth with flavor and silky goodness. We left with a special treat of chestnut and white chocolate ice cream bar on a stick…sweet tooth overload for the day!
Drinks on the River
Along the Kamo River is a street called Pontocho that is lined with restaurants and bars, many with decks overlooking the river and parks along the river.
[PIC]
After getting a recommendation from a local bartender, we ended up at Bar Atlantis, which featured a very sleek, modern, understated bar inside and a perfect riverside patio seating area with a full bar. They are true cocktail artisans, with a wide variety of specialty drinks and a full bar that includes rum, whiskey, vodka, sake, wine, and beer. Definitely worth the stop, and enjoy the view of locals strolling the riverbanks. We even spotted a couple walking their pet rabbit!
Time for Japanese Pub Food!
One evening, we indulged in a dinner at Manzara-Tei Izakaya (an Izakaya is a type of Japanese pub). However, the food at this establishment surpassed our expectations in terms of both sophistication and taste.
We chose an 8-course menu item that provided sashimi, tempura, cod, sardines, steamed dishes, miso soup (delicious), and dessert! The artistic presentation of the food and the accompanying flavors were amazing!
[PICS]
We learned that izakayas can come in many varieties and levels of food offerings in Japan, which has been a nice surprise.
Nature and Serenity
Nature was calling, and we answered! It was time to connect with our zen (and celebrate Ralph's birthday), so we headed up for a fantastic day hiking in the Kurama Mountains to visit the Kurama-dera Temple and Kibune (Kifune) Shrine.
The nature and pure beauty surrounding these sacred places is amazing and humbling. Located in the hills of Mount Kurama, we enjoyed lush views of a green expanse that never ended.
Starting at the Kurama-dera Temple, we were struck with the energetic orange-on-white design that is typical of temples throughout Japan. The curved roofs, detailed design, and impeccably manicured gardens created a zen experience we had expected. The awe-inspiring views from the temple out over the surrounding mountain ranges made you contemplate your inner peace and connect with nature that is all around us, every day and in every creature.
Hiking Over the Mountain
We continued our exploration, hiking from the Kurama-dera Temple area, over the mountain (on a clearly marked path) toward our destination of the Kibune Village. The hike took about two hours, but the shade and occasional forest-scented breezes provided plenty of rejuvenating energy to keep us going.
Most Picturesque Lunch Ever
Our hiking journey ended at the Kibune village that borders the Kibune River and is lined with restaurants featuring tatami mat seating directly on the river. Literally, they had set up entire dining and cafe areas, covered with bamboo and traditional Japanese lamps, directly on the river. We chose to eat at a recommended restaurant, the Hyoue, which was situated in front of a tiered waterfall, and since we arrived at the tail end of lunch, we had the entire river-seating area to ourselves! We could reach over from our seats and put our hands in the cool river.
We enjoyed a prix fixe menu of 10 courses, and we had (of course) added sake to relax our sore muscles. We highly recommend this restaurant as it is definitely worth the hike and visit.
Temple Day
We visited the infamous Kiyomizu-Dera Temple, a breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage site that offers visitors a glimpse into the rich history and culture of the region. With its stunning wooden architecture and panoramic views of the city, this temple is a must-visit for anyone seeking tranquility and beauty in their travels. The vibrant orange in the design and structures acted as magnets for the eyes, boldly contrasting with the lush green backdrop of the surrounding mountains. Don't forget to try the sacred Otawa Waterfall, believed to grant wishes to those who drink from it!
We visited also Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine, known for the orange torii gates path leading up the mountain. Though a total tourist magnet, the main temple grounds were beautifully arranged and easy to meander through, and once we took in the great views and architecture, we headed up the iconic Torii gates path. This tunnel of zen beauty and peace was spectacular.
Going to Market
We had a delightful culinary experience at Kyoto's Nishiki Market. This covered outdoor market extended for blocks with a wide variety of mainly food shops, but some retail stores scattered throughout. The food ranged from basic sushi to octopus-quail egg on a stick (yes we tried this) to cod fish roe ice cream. The cod fish roe ice cream, for me, was one of the highlights as it was spicy while a bit sweet, with an undertone of cod taste. It was very unique and delicious…we even went back another day for a second helping!
A Little Monkey Business
Nothing is more adorable than baby monkeys! One of the highlights of our visit to Kyoto was a train trip out to Arashiyama (Ukyo-Ku Ward), that included a hike up the mountain (and it was a good 20 minute hike) up to the Iwatayama Arashiyama Monkey Park.
We had the incredible opportunity to walk among these stunning and intelligent creatures. The designated area allows the monkeys to freely interact with human visitors, and we can feed them (by purchasing approved snacks) through a caged section. We were in close proximity, with some monkeys even running around our legs as they explored their surroundings, often in search of the food we were offering.
There were multiple newborn monkeys, one of them being only a day old, that were incredibly adorable. We couldn't resist taking countless photos of them. We spent more than an hour observing these charming creatures and their interactions. While there were some monkey fights, it was fascinating to see how they formed alliances and displayed emotional outbursts, much like humans.
TRAVEL INSIGHT: Exchange Rates & Credit Cards
At the time of this trip (2018), the $1 US was equivalent to about ¥100 (Yen) in Japan. So if you spent ¥2,000 for lunch, it was about $20 US. Though we did use some cash while in Japan, we relied on the excellent exchange rate our credit card offers to save by charging most of our purchases. Check with your credit card (or explore new ones) for a comparison. We have Chase Premier and love the rates and the excellent customer service with travel incentives.
Wifi in Japan is Portable and Affordable
We did some research beforehand and learned that portable WiFi routers are all the rage in Japan, and they are more affordable than purchasing an international plan with your wireless phone provider. We booked our Ninja WiFi High-Speed Portable Router through Voyagin. Ninja is supposed to have the best coverage throughout Japan and they allow many devices to connect simultaneously.
Logging into WiFi was as easy as turning it on, entering the code, and surfing the net. The speed of service (at the airport and on the train to the hotel) was exceptionally fast.
Taxis in Japan
When it comes to taxis in Japan, you may notice a striking difference between the yellow and black ones. Yellow taxis are commonly found in Tokyo, while black taxis are more prevalent in cities like Kyoto and Osaka. The choice of color is not just for aesthetics; it actually signifies different taxi services. Yellow taxis are typically operated by larger companies and can be hailed on the street or found at designated taxi stands. They often use meters to calculate fares and accept various payment methods. On the other hand, black taxis are usually privately owned and require advance booking through phone or online platforms. They offer a more personalized experience and often come with professional drivers who are knowledgeable about local attractions. So, whether you opt for a yellow or black taxi, both options provide convenient and reliable transportation throughout Japan's bustling cities.
Uber is now accessible in Japan, primarily in major cities such as Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, and Fukuoka.
SPECIAL NOTE on Japanese 7-11s
7-11 stores in Japan are like none other, as they feature many fresh meals and food items you don’t get in the US, and many locals and travelers visit them often (they also have international ATMs, which is convenient for travelers.)
Follow Our Travels!
We'd love for you to join us on our social media channels. You can find the links in the sidebar or drop-down menu. And if you want to stay in the loop, consider subscribing to receive occasional email updates. We can't wait to connect with you!
